@Lars Himpens OK I'm going ot break this down for you.
Battery terminals FIRST
This is the #1 thing.
On Shadows, if the battery terminals are even slightly loose or dirty, you’ll get:
- lights on normally,
- hit start,
- instant blackout,
- sometimes a clicking sound,
- sometimes total silence
remove both terminals, clean them shiny, reinstall TIGHT, especially check the ground cable where it bolts to the frame/engine.
Try to watch the voltage while pressing start
If you have a multimeter:
Battery resting:
- should be around 12.6–12.8V
While pressing the starter:
- if it instantly drops below ~9–10V, the battery is bad or discharged.
Even new batteries can be defective my man! sucks but it does happen!
Attempt a REAL jump start correctly
Motorcycle batteries are picky.
If jump starting from a car:
- car ENGINE OFF,
- good solid cable connections,
- let it sit connected for 3–5 minutes,
- then attempt start.
If the lights STILL completely die when hitting the button even while connected to another battery:
that points harder toward a bad cable, ground, relay, or starter issue.
Listen for relay behavior
When pressing start:
- single loud click = usually relay engaging but insufficient current
- rapid clicking = weak battery/connection
- no click at all = starter button, clutch switch, neutral switch, or relay issue
Check the main fuse
VT600s have a main fuse at the starter solenoid. A partially melted or corroded fuse connection can act SUPER weird:
- intermittent starting,
- sudden power collapse,
- worked yesterday/not today behavior.
My suspicions
Most likely → least likely:
- Loose/corroded battery terminal
- Bad ground cable
- Defective new battery
- Starter relay/solenoid issue
- Charging system killed the new battery immediately
- Starter motor failure
The weird “worked for 30 minutes after jump-starting yesterday” part makes me wonder if:
- the charging system isn’t charging,
OR
- the battery cables are intermittently making contact.
If you get it started again, you should check charging voltage at idle:
- should be around 13.5–14.5V with bike running.
If it stays around 12V running, the stator/regulator system isn’t charging the battery.