@Kenny G
Damn dude, I'm sorry to hear you're having all these issues.
First, installing parts from a rebuild kit doesn't guarantee that every other component on the bike is functioning correctly, and there are a couple different issues being described here that need to be diagnosed separately. was the bike running well before you installed the kit??
If the rear cylinder genuinely has NO SPARK coming from the ignition system, that has nothing to do with the velocity stacks, carburetor jetting, or a performance rebuild kit. A no-spark condition needs to be diagnosed on the ignition side—spark plug, plug wire/cap, coil, wiring/connections, grounds, ignition components, etc.
Now, if they're saying the spark plug is getting so wet with fuel that it becomes fouled and won't FIRE, that's different from having no spark at the ignition wire. Excessive fuel can absolutely soak/foul a plug and cause the cylinder to stop firing, but the ignition system may still be producing spark. this means the jetting in the carb need to be adjusted but does not mean the kit is wrong.
The same thing applies to what they're calling "cylinder wash." Cylinder wash normally means there is so much raw fuel entering the cylinder that it washes the lubricating oil film off the cylinder wall. That fuel can also work its way past the rings and dilute the engine oil, which is why an oil change may be necessary after a severe flooding condition. That would indicate that we need to figure out WHY that cylinder is receiving that much fuel. hjaving a cylinder washed in OIL though, indicates either bad rings, aka excessive blowby, or bad valve seals. or excessive crankcase pressure. Did you plug your crankcase breather? its the little box with a nipple pointing forward on the rear cylinder that pulses with puffs of air when the engine is running, that needs to have a length of hose on it run down the back of the bike.
Things I would want checked before throwing away the rebuild kit are the float and float height, float needle and seat, whether the float is actually shutting fuel off, the choke/enricher, and whether the carburetor was assembled correctly. A stuck float or needle that isn't sealing can dump a huge amount of fuel into a cylinder.
So before spending hundreds of dollars replacing everything, I would ask the mechanic for some very specific information:
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Does the rear plug wire/plug actually have NO SPARK when tested outside the cylinder?
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Or does it have spark, but the plug is getting soaked/fouled with fuel?
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Is the carburetor overflowing or flooding?
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What is the float height?
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Is the float needle actually sealing and stopping fuel flow?
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Is there gasoline in the engine oil?
Those answers will tell us whether we're dealing with an ignition problem, a carburetor flooding problem, or both.
Simply saying the TJBC rebuild kit needs to be thrown away doesn't diagnose any of those things. Let's identify the actual failure first, because replacing the entire kit without knowing what the hell is wrong will not fix the problem at all.
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