Got the max performance kit and wanted 4" baffles but were out of stock so I cut three inches off the 8" set for exhaust. Have had to pull the carburetors off so much that I can do it and change jets and back on in 25 minutes. Started with fuel dumping finally found the 7mm float height recommendation. Now it acts like I am between jet sizes. The largest pilot jets are too rich and with the smaller set it loads up and dies after idle for a few minutes. Running 2 shims in the needles and the largest main jets and it is not happy. Too rich. Are my floats too high still and my baffles too long? State law requires baffles so I have to have something. And my largest pilot jet cracked in the screw slot so I can't use it. Apologies for the Gen x cave man typing thougths. Hope it makes sense
@Mr.P id first start here if you havent already - t.ly/tSs5J
lots of info there that will help you in your tuning.
make sure you dont have any vacuum leaks and that your slides are moving freely. the carb removal isnt really that hard, ive been doing em for 20 years, youre now a professional at it! LOL
I still can't get it right. I'm on my second set of boots and second set of bowl gaskets. I have 42 pilots and two shims on needles and 145 mains. My floats are at 10mm. My low speed is still too rich but not by much. My mid and high is too rich.. When I blip the throttle it loads up and chugs black out of the exhaust. As it warms up it slow surges at idle almost hunting. When I have the 142 mains and shims it too lean on high end and after fires. When I have float below 8 mm it dumps fuel and low speed is way too rich and floods. Going to remove the baffles in the exhaust today and see what happens but I wouldn't think it would have such an effect. I have polished the seats and they shut off when blow through a hose and raise the float. New max fuel tank kit and filter. Any other ideas I can look for? Bike ran really nice before this just a little lean after previous owner drilled baffles from stock exhaust
Got home pulled the baffles turned on the fuel tried to start it and raw fuel puffed and spit from the rear cylinder. So tomorrow will pull the carbs and change the needle and seat again. Had a feeling that could have been the culprit but it would seal when I tested it.
I have had enough. Have been going in circles for over a month now trying to get the max performance kit to work. I have tried several combinations and still end up in the same place. Third set of carb boots third set of bowl gaskets new needle and seat wouldn't seal back to original needle and seat new idle mix screws would get in the way of throttle and had to go back to original new exhaust pipe burnt and melted my cover so I guess I will put stock airbox and exhaust back on and hopefully it doesn't interfere with the fuel tank clearance. So far has been a waste of hard earned and much needed time and money
Man, I wish I was smart enough to tell you what to do, but I'm not. Just sorry you're going through all this.
@Terry Walters thanks for the well wishes. I think I will pull the baffles out of the exhaust and see if it is any happier without the restrictions in the exhaust. It seems to me like it's vapor locking after the engine warms up , I'm getting too rich symptoms and the carbs load up and engine dies and it won't start until it cools again. . I am curious if the baffles are preventing enough velocity to keep cool airflow for proper atomization and it is causing droplets of fuel to form . All of my issues happened after the engine comes up to temp. If that doesn't work I will start with the factory air box. I hate not being able to use the parts they are great quality.
I pulled the baffles it started a lot quicker I can feel the difference holding my hand over the velocity stacks. I got the idle mixture adjusted it ran for maybe 10 to 20 minutes and same thing once the engine gets hot the exhaust gets rich and it won't idle and dies then I can let it sit for a couple minutes then it will start run for a few minutes and loads up and dies and won't start again. Carburetors are too simple for this kind of constant going in circles.
So upon further investigation I am discovering that my issue is heat soaked carburetors. After the bike dies and if I get close to the intake on the carburetor for the front cylinder I can hear it wheezing a little from the fuel being hot. I didn't ever have problems with this before I put the performance kit on it what changed? I did plug the two vacuum ports where they joined a line to the air box did I mistakenly plug the bowl vents?
Before I start taking everything off and back to stock I guess my only option to try is to wrap my exhaust. So I am going to try it hopefully it will work well enough for me to get some use out of everything. And I'm going to trim off a lot of exhaust baffles so it has more flow. My state law requires exhaust to have baffles but don't say anything about noise level they leave it up to the police to interpret.
@Mr.P post a picture of what you plugged and i can look at whats going on
The only 2 ports that I have plugged are the 2 at the left and right of the carburetor intake that join and t into the one hose that goes to the air box. I still have the slide diaphragm vent hoses attached and joined to the plastic piece that likes to pop apart when you look at it too closely. I am planning to get the vent kit. And I have the crank case vent routed down and left open to breathe. Zero vacuum leaks. Cleaned the spark plugs. They were black like too rich.
@Mr.P i need to see which ports because if youre blocking your slide vents then thats a real problem.
Thanks for responding. I definitely don't have the slide vents blocked. I still have the factory hoses setup on them. The ports I have blocked went to the air box.
The picture with me holding the screwdriver I am pointing to the cap over the vacuum port
I had to put the aluminum duct tape on my plastic electronics cover because the exhaust melted the corner of it
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Terry Walters New Member
