So now that I've spent the summer swapping parts around I think I have the layout of lights and switches dialed in. I plan to add and swap out some lights but otherwise im there. I'm hoping over the winter to switch to an antigravity lithium battery. The AG 1201 to be specific as I saw the amperage range seems to fit better for the 750DC. I also plan to require the entire bike.
My goal with the reduced space for electronics is to convert 60-70% of the remaining space into a large fabricated toolbox. But before I start I want to know a few things.
First, is the AG 1201 a mistake? Should I stick with the AG 801?
Second, I saw the stock Regulator/ Rectifier may damage the lithium battery, as it's voltage can fluctuate beyond the lithium batterie's limits. Should I swap it out for a Regulator rectifier like the FH020AA – Shindengen MOSFET Rectifier/Regulator which snaps shut at the battery voltage limit or will the stock one handle the battery just fine without causing harm?
Third, I was recommended the motogagit Mo.unit Basic, which takes the place of the fuse box, wiring harness, and relays. Does it work? Is it worth the time and money?
@Camp B hey dude!
So to answer your questions the AG801 is perfectly fine for VT750 you don't need a 1201.
The charging system on a 2001 Honda Spirit 750 is perfectly adequate and safe for an anti gravity battery. I have a 2007 VT600 a 2003 VT750 Spirit a 2005 VTX 1300, all ruinning stock reg/rec and antigravity batteries.
you only need to worry about pre 1990's japanese bikes. they had mechanical votage regulators, and they wear out over time and and stop controlling the voltage and charge to the battery. These old broken voltage regulators can spike voltages of up to 28V which can lead to swelling and thermal runaway. you dont need to worry about this.
the motogadget setup is great buit not for the faint of heart. it does take some work to install and attention to detail. it is not a plug and play item, you will need to have a very basic understanding of electrical engineering and how to read a wiring diagram., it does not replace a wiring harness. you will still have to run wiring. you will also need to get new turn signals, switches and lights, as the traditional wiring setup doesnt work with a can-bus system. its a major upgrade. i prefer to just unplug whats not needed from the stock harness and leave it. ive done tons of bikes this way with zero issues. its easy, economical, requires zero money, and achieves the desired effect of cleaning up a wiring harness.