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Why should I buy my parts online?
For the most part, bikers head to traditional shops to get their parts. But if you are specific about what you need, you will understand the frustration of not getting what you want. It’s why more and more riders are turning to online sources for their bike parts, and Honda motorcycle parts in particular. Let’s look at a few of the reasons why I recommend people head online to find their aftermarket bike parts.
You need the right part. Not the one that’s in stock.
One of the joys of modding your Honda is getting it to your exact specifications. Every single detail is under your control, so your ride is completely, uniquely yours. When you can’t find the part you need at a traditional store, you’ll get two options: compromise and get something similar or wait for a costly special order that will take a long time to come in.
When you shop online for your Honda motorcycle parts, you see the parts in our warehouse that are ready to get shipped right away. That means you get exactly what you want in a shorter amount of time. Rather than compromising or waiting too long, you can instead order the part directly from us and start upgrading your bike sooner.
Help your dollar go further
Remember that special order? Once the shop puts on its usual markup, you’ll be looking at prices that simply can’t compare with what we can offer online. We keep our overhead low and pass on the savings to our customers. That means your dollar will go further and you don’t have to compromise on upgrading your bike.
Shop with confidence
I encourage you to go through our product listings right now. You’ll see a few things. First, you’ll see genuine, actual reviews by people who know what they’re talking about. Next, you’ll see that we give our advice and takes on the products there as well. Why? Because we want to give you all the information required to make the right decision for your bike. Between the reviews and our take, you can figure out exactly what you need and be confident that it’s the right part for what you need.
What if I need help?
Buying your Honda motorcycle parts online has some major advantages. But what about when you need help? Don’t worry. We thought about that.
Our team has created blog posts, FAQs, how-to articles and an entire YouTube channel dedicated to helping Honda bike enthusiasts like yourself get the information you need. We can walk you through everything, from picking the right parts to understanding how to get the best performance possible.
If you’re looking to improve your bike, you shouldn’t have to compromise. You should instead have the parts, knowledge and confidence that you got what you need to upgrade your bike the way you want. Check out our stock and resources today and start building! Click here to learn more.
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So in this situation what I would recommend is to pull the carbs out and clean them. Especially if you don't know the condition, and even if a previous owner said they cleaned them. Many times people will tell you that they have rejetted a carb and unfortunately that is not always the case. The second thing is, take a look at the intake boots. If the intake boots are old, hard and you cannot squeeze them, they are CRAP. You need to throw them away and get them replacements. I am not just trying to sell you something here, but seriously most likely fix here, because they can create serious vacuum leaks and when the bike is vibrating and running those boots are shaking as well. If they are hard and don't seal well, this allows air into your combution chamber affecting your RPM. If you haven't done those two things, those are the first things I would try.
If you have hunting idle, you most likely have a vacuum leak, you may have a torn diaphragm. Those are two other things you might want to look at, that is why the first thing I said to do is pull the carbs out and inspect everything and rebuild it. We do have rebuild kits that are SUPER helpful. Starting from ground zero is usually your best bet and making sure it all squeaky clean!
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The carbs that come on the VT600 can actually deliver more fule and air then the VT600 is able to deal with. You then can put it on a VT750 just fine if you are really looking for performance, then you need to tune your Stock Carb. You can tune it, but this is not to say you cannot use any other carbs on the bike, you can do whater you want. You can stuff a squirrel in your intake if you like- it will not help. But if you can tune our stock carb properly, you will be getting plenty of performance out of that bike. If you are just want to drag race, then sure you are going to want to find a carb exhaust system combo that is going to give you the best offline performance that allows you to slam into high RPM fast. You can put alot of carbs on the single carb VT600's as well as some of hte other Honda Shadows, but they may not always give you the desired results you are looking for. The key in stock in carbs, they are not bad, usually I am not really into stock stuff, but those carbs with some tuning, they can be an amazing part of your perforamnce of ryour bike.
The exact question TJ got this week, "Can I put an electron carb on my VT600?"
Short answer, sure if you want, if you can make a fit, have fun. You are probably going to spend $600-800 on a carb that very well give you almost identical performance to the stock carb. There are alot of great carbs out there, alot of them are purpose driven, usually electron carbs are geared toward offroad performance. They are a mechanical slide type carb, they have variation in construction dealing with fuel and air delivery to the motor. They all make great products, with pros and cons.
TJ typically get these types of questions when he knows that people are looking for perofrmance boost and making their bikes MACHINES. Remember that there is a cap to performance on some of these bikes beforeyou blow the motor up. If you want to get overall performance of the bike, from idle to throttle and that means tuning that stock carb properly and you will have an awesome bike.
Tops Movies:
1. Akira: it is a animated film but definitely worth a watch!
2. Easy Rider: A classic...two bikers head from L.A to New Orleans, and along the way, meet a man who bridges a counter-culture gap they are unaware of.
3. Wild Hogs: Super funny and a good laugh! Its about a group of suburban biker wannabes looking for adventure hit the open road, but get more than they bargained for when they encounter a New Mexico gang called the Del Fuegos.
4. C. C. & Company: Another classic...A motorcycle rebel rescues a woman from his gang and fights an outlaw guru for supremacy.
5. Mad Max (original version): Mel Gibon in this classic, stars as Australian policeman sets out to stop a violent motorcycle gang.
Top Books:
1. The Total Motorcycling Manual: Great range of beginner and experienced information on topics... Topics such as: Learn Motorcycle Anatomy, Know Why That Bike’s For Sale, Cool Off with Cheap Tricks, Become a Better Rider in 12 Steps, Know Your Streetbikes and Break in an Engine.
2. Proficient Motorcycling: A guide in motorcycle safety essential reading for all motorcyclists regardless of their years of experience, lays out a clear course for all riders who want to sharpen their handling skills and improve their rides.
3. Zen and The Article of Motorcycle Maintenance: A book that narrates a summer motorcycle trip across America's Northwest, undertaken by a father and his young son.
4. Hell's Angel: Sonny Barger recounts the birth of the original Oakland Hell's Angels and the four turbulent decades that followed. Hell's Angel also chronicles the way the HAMC revolutionized the look of the Harley-Davidson motorcycle and built what has become a worldwide bike-riding fraternity, a beacon for freedom-seekers the world over.
5. McQueen's Motorcycle: In his movies, McQueen's character always had an envy-inducing motorcycle or car, but in his personal life, motorcycles were always McQueen's first true love. McQueen's Motorcycles focuses on the bikes that the King of Cool raced and collected.
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Alot of the Honda Shadow models back in the day T-Bar handle bars. They risers were actually welded to the handlebars and there was no riser to clamp the handlebars into. They are commonly referred to as T-Bars. You have to bolt them in from the bottom, the risers that is. So if you did not like the positioning of the handle bars it was difficult then because you were stuck with them in that spot. Someone asked if they could take a stock riser from a VT600 2002/2003 and put them on his 88/89 Honda VT600. He wanted to know if it would fit his bike. If you want to put after market risers you find on the internet, like one of ours, you will need to drill out the center pushing in the top. If you have an earlier style Honda Shadow with T-style bars yes you can get risers from other places and put them on there no problem. One of the easiest things to modify your bike is to update your bars and pipes. Two really easy motifications depending on your level of mechanical skill. Without alot of cost involved and could be done in a day.
Today I am going to talk about something super simple but important, changing your spark plugs. If you own a Honda Shadow 600 0r 750 they all have this hole in the cylinder in the back. Inside the hole is a spark plug! When you are trying to remove it, if you do not have the very special Honda tool, which is harder to find then the Hope Diamond for some reason. They use to come in a little tool box underneath the seat of Honda Shadows, but I have found that a lot of bikes have been pilfered of that. The previous owner kept it and threw it in their own tool box. If you don’t have the kit, you can find them on Ebay for $30-40. Today I am going to show you how to get the spark plug out way easier, you do not need any of the tools from the kit. Of course if you have the kit, thats great! If you don’t I have a solution!
First off you are going to need a an 18mm socket and a ratchet. Pretty simple stuff, all you are going to do is go to the spark plug and going to break the spark plug loose. Just until it is pretty loose, then pull it out. The reason you are going to have to pull it out is because you won’t be able to pull out the spark plug and the tool at the same time. If you do, the spark plug will just fall back in even if you have one of those spark plug sockets and I know a lot of you guys have. They have rubber inside the socket to grab onto the spark plug, the issue they are too fat to back out of the hole one you loose the spark plug.Here is the hot tip, you are going to go to your local auto zone and get a 3/8th inch fuel line. You are going to take it down over the edge of the spark plug and pull it out. Voila! This is the super easy way to take your spark plug out in the deep holes in the Honda Shadows. If you have the stock tool you can get rid of that, and get rid of the weight and put one of the rubber tubes inside your kit. You have now cut weight and if it ever breaks or gets lost its easily replaceable.
Pro Tip: Make sure to label it so that it does not get thrown away as a scrap piece inside your too box. I labeled mine “SPARK PLUG” making it easy to find. For reinstalling your spark plug, this tube makes it easy as well. Push the spark plug back into the tubing, thread it back inside. It’s like having really long fingers. You are going to finish tightening it with your socket.
That is my solution!
oday I am going to talk about something super simple but important, changing your spark plugs. If you own a Honda Shadow 600 0r 750 they all have this hole in the cylinder in the back. Inside the hole is a spark plug! When you are trying to remove it, if you do not have the very special Honda tool, which is harder to find then the Hope Diamond for some reason. They use to come in a little tool box underneath the seat of Honda Shadows, but I have found that a lot of bikes have been pilfered of that. The previous owner kept it and threw it in their own tool box. If you don’t have the kit, you can find them on Ebay for $30-40. Today I am going to show you how to get the spark plug out way easier, you do not need any of the tools from the kit. Of course if you have the kit, thats great! If you don’t I have a solution!
First off you are going to need a an 18mm socket and a ratchet. Pretty simple stuff, all you are going to do is go to the spark plug and going to break the spark plug loose. Just until it is pretty loose, then pull it out. The reason you are going to have to pull it out is because you won’t be able to pull out the spark plug and the tool at the same time. If you do, the spark plug will just fall back in even if you have one of those spark plug sockets and I know a lot of you guys have. They have rubber inside the socket to grab onto the spark plug, the issue they are too fat to back out of the hole one you loose the spark plug.Here is the hot tip, you are going to go to your local auto zone and get a 3/8th inch fuel line. You are going to take it down over the edge of the spark plug and pull it out. Voila! This is the super easy way to take your spark plug out in the deep holes in the Honda Shadows. If you have the stock tool you can get rid of that, and get rid of the weight and put one of the rubber tubes inside your kit. You have now cut weight and if it ever breaks or gets lost its easily replaceable.
Pro Tip: Make sure to label it so that it does not get thrown away as a scrap piece inside your too box. I labeled mine “SPARK PLUG” making it easy to find. For reinstalling your spark plug, this tube makes it easy as well. Push the spark plug back into the tubing, thread it back inside. It’s like having really long fingers. You are going to finish tightening it with your socket.
That is my solution!
Check out the video below of TJ demonstrating using his homemade tool!
Are you wanting to upgrade the performance of your Honda VT750 bike, with new stacks, exhaust or tuning it? Make sure that you are properly taking care of your crancaske breather.
TJ in his latest video shows you what a crankcase breather is and what do about it on your VT750. So if you are in the process of adding some performance upgrades such as a Velocity Stack, exhaust, tune your bike you may encounter a bunch of hoses and BS underneath. One of those hoses leads to a little box, it looks like a early version of a british tank… in my opinion. That is where your crankcase breather is, it is very important for your bike because when you have pistons moving up and down in a motor its going to create pressure in two different directions. when it comes up it creates pressure above, when it moves down you’re creating pressure in the bottom of the motor, that pressure has to go somewhere.
If you don’t have a way for that pressure to vent then you will end up putting oil and air out of the weakest point in your bike. You got gaskets and seals all over this bike. they’re all over the place you even have them on your pistons. and if you don’t let this pressure out of the motor it is going to find the weakest link and get out that way. and its not going to be fun- you will have oil spewing out everywhere. most of the time i see the oil coming out from below the cylinders that only happens if you plug your crankcase breather. If you plug that pressure can’t going anywhere. as you are all excited to add stacks and tuning your bike, to make it super fast, you want to make sure to not plug the breather. instead you are going to take a hose and run it down the back to the ground. If it becomes plugged, you are going to experience some not fun stuff, you can get oil in your cylinders, you’ll get oil out of your gaskets. As long as it remains open the pressure in the crankcase can then be equalized. So that being said, don’t put a filter on it, not a good idea!
The reason I would recommend that is because filter is actually going to trap any oil or moisture that comes out of here. that means the motor won’t breathe. think of water boarding your bike. there is no ability for the crankcase to allow air in as the pistons move or push air out. if your bike, is running and you put your finger over the hole, you will feel little pulses. You will feel air being pulled in and pushed out. it’s really gentle, but there will be some kind of mist over a period of time. Honda generally has a tank running to collect that and will collect at the bottom of the filter.
The EPA- government would not allow Honda to spew refuse all over the ground. they had to find a place to put it. Main take aways make sure it is not plugged, and it is vented!
To learn more watch the video below!
Tips on what you can remove from your bike to properly install velocity stacks.
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The simple way to put this is you can pretty much get rid of everything that’s not coolant or fuel if its coolant or fuel you need it, it's important! There’s a lot of air injection system stuff, repair valve, mostly EPA stuff that Honda has to put on the bike to be able to sell it to you! Thanks EPA! You can pretty much take everything out as long as it is not fuel or gas on single carb bikes- at least Honda Shadows. Many of them have coolant lines going to the carburetor, and this is a carb warming system, it is doesn't go into the carb there is no passages through the carb it literally comes out of the water jacket at the intake manifold and goes into a dead end of the carb there’s a little wide junction thing and then it goes back out behind the radiator.
The logic behind this is to warm the carb, if you live in a really cool environment apparently this is a really good idea. Along time ago they had issues with carbs freezing because if a carb is attached to a bike with metal, anytime you rip fuel and air apart into an atomized mixture, you drop temperature you dont increase temperature so carbs would get so cold the they would ice over. The faster you go the faster the air is flowing through there you are getting colder and colder and the carb gets cold and and the carb starts to not function correctly. So the idea there is to keep the carb warm enough to prevent that. In theory yes it is great, have i ever seen this in real life? NOPE, never seen it. I’ve heard it from people who have really old Harley’s, with hanky ass old carbs yeah that’s probably gonna happen on older technology but now its not really a concern especially if you live in a pretty temperate climate. you really don’t need it the best way to get a rid of that is you can take the line from the intake manifold on a single carb bike there is gonna be brass nipple sticking up you can run the line from that- to the nipple on the radiator. That’s one way to do it.
You can also plug both of those nipples you can take a piece of tubing, you can take the one that was originally attached to them and hose clamp them on and find a bolt that Fits inside that hose so it’s got to screw in though I’d recommend putting a little like black RTV on the threads which also never use any RTV anywhere else on the bike ever ever ever and JB Weld should never be used anywhere in your motorcycle either if you find yourself reaching for those stop go get help yeah so you can find get a bolt and screw it into the hose and hose clamp that you have two hose clamps on the hose coming off the nipples that will plug the ports on the radiator as well the intake manifold. they are under pressure so you can’t just smush a vacuum plug on there if you do that’s just going to pop right off and you’ll have coolant everywhere so that’s basically all that you have to do to get rid of the coolant lines. if you’re trying to get rid of all the stuff for all the airlines and vacuum crap and valves. It can be pretty confusing if you have never touched anything like that before but you can basically rip all of it out if there’s coolant or fuel in it it needs to stay.
one other exception I remembered the auto fuel petcock which is on the Honda shadow VT 600 99 to 07 they recalled this because it was a vacuum operated diaphragm that shut off the fuel flow when you turn the bike off so if shut your bike off and you have no more compression on your rear cylinder the idea was that the vacuum wouldn't hold the diaphragm open to allow fuel to pass-through in your carburetor kind of a good idea I guess, you know if the bike dies and goes down it’s probably not gonna leak gas anywhere but honestly I’ve seen enough bikes go down the issue again this is a government mandated bunch crap so the easiest way to get rid of that is just to take the AFP auto fuel petcock off the intake and run the fuel line from the tank to the carburetor. I do recommend putting a fuel filter in the line somewhere but a fuel filter is very important can save a lot of heart ache down the road. You are gonna be left with a small quarter inch vacuum hose that is going down to the rear cylinder and that needs to be plugged. so I do offer an auto fuel petcock plug back in Port plug, it’s the proper depth the proper size and it will plug it properly so your bike will still run if you don’t plug that you will have serious issues.
To watch more on Velocity Stacks Installation watch the video below:
2. Emery cloth use the same as sandpaper in step one, but use emery cloth instead. A little more durable then paper but still not a great option for over time.
3. TJ's least favorite solution would be “Pinning” the bars. You would drill the bars and risers and push pins into them. This is not a great option because now you have holes in your bars/risers and have a permanent fixture with drills in it. This will definitely stabilize the bars, but good luck ever getting them out!
4. Blue Loctite on knurling- something that TJ has heard others have used, but not tried himself. Can work in a desperate situation to possible tighten up your handlebars.
5. Aluminum mesh for wood screws. Similar to the same method of sandpaper and emery cloth but the metal has a very rough surface and more durable. You are going to but them down to fit them inside the bar and clamps. Super affordable and a great option!
6. Lapping compound used on the handlebars. It is a grinding and lapping compound, that is a mild abrasive. It is great for valves to make sure they seal properly. You can apply it inside the risers to help the bars grip better.
7. Cut a beer can and shim the risers. Similar to some of other methods, is putting a piece of the beer can inside the risers- great for 'side of the road' fixes. It will work to help clamp your bars down.
8. Use a rasp on bars and clamps. To help create a grip, file a grooves inside the risers and bars.
9. Loctite on riser bolts. VERY simple solution, put red loctite on riser bolts and tighten the bar down on them.
10. Don’t use JUST an allen key to tighten bars, it is weak and you can't get enough torque to tighten them down. TJ recommends using an allen socket on an extension with a ratchet.
11. THE best tip is to tighten rear riser bolts first then front. This will really secure your bars and will avoid any slipping.
Want more info on how to stop your handlebars from slipping? Watch the full video here!
In this video TJ shares 8 tips he has found to be helpful when pulled over by a cop. His 8 tips and tricks are best practices and ettiquete for dealing with the cops when pulled over on a motorcycle.
For a full breakdown of TJ's tips watch the video below.
Removing the grips from your bike is usually a pretty straightforward task. Typically, you can just cut them off. If they’re metal, you’ll need to pull them off. If they’re glued on, then you’re pretty screwed (but we’ll address that in a moment). Please make note: You NEVER need to use glue on your grips; that’s a recipe for disaster.
On any type of motorcycle—whether it’s a stock Honda Shadow, a Harley or something entirely different—the easiest way to get grips on and off is with compressed air. Grab your air compressor hose, hook it up with a narrow nozzle, put the grip on the bar, and blow the air in there. It’ll slide right onto the bar—no need for spit, WD-40, hairspray or glue! And when you want to take it off you do the same thing: wedge the compressor nozzle underneath the grip, blow air in there and it blows right off. (just make sure you’re not standing on the business end of that grip coming off because it’ll smack you right in the crotch!)
If your grips are glued on to your bike’s throttle sleeve, there’s not much hope for getting them off, so you’ll need a replacement throttle sleeve. That’s the simplest solution in that situation.
For a full breakdown of how to install/uninstall grips on your Honda Shadow, watch this video!
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“Help! My Honda Shadow stopped working! What do I do now?”
It’s time to run a diagnostic. If you’re new to this, we’re here to help. When running a motorcycle diagnostic, the key components of the diagnostic tree to remember are FUEL, SPARK and COMPRESSION.
Now let’s get started!
First thing’s first: check to see if your Honda Shadow is getting fuel. Start at the gas tank. Is your gas cap properly vented? Start your diagnostic here because it’s the point where fuel first enters your bike. Is the gas cap open? Is it plugged?
Next, check your Petcock. Is it plugged? Is the fuel line pinched? Is the fuel filter full of crap and thus not letting anything flow through? Is your float valve stuck? Is there a bunch of garbage in your float bowl?
Open the float bowl drain screw and see if there’s fuel coming out of the float bowl. If there is, that means you’re getting fuel to the float bowl. However, that doesn’t necessarily mean it’s getting pulled up out of the carb into the cylinders (where the explosions happen, allowing things to move forward).
Next, check to see if you’re getting fuel in the cylinders. If you’re firing up your Shadow and nothing is happening, you can usually smell fuel in the exhaust or in the pipes. If you get to the point where you’re just pumping and pumping but not getting any spark, then you’re “washing” your cylinders—and that’s bad. Normally, gasoline that enters into the cylinders is going to be combusted with the air, creating the power to move the pistons and give you forward motion with your motor. The walls of your cylinder are actually coated with oil. If the gasoline gets continually sprayed in there and just sits on the walls, it will eventually end up washing the walls of any oil. When you soak the walls in gasoline, you lose your lubrication. Then the rings of your pistons will start scraping raw metal. This is not good. And then you also have the problem of having gas in your oil. If it gets past the rings into the crankcase then you’ll have to flush your entire crankcase.
If you’ve gotten this far and still not found the problem, the next step to investigate is “spark.”
Now is the time to check your battery. Honda Shadows typically do not like anything less than 12v for startup or running. If they have 11.8v (which doesn’t seem that far off of 12—it’s not), they’re a little persnickety and won’t want to run well. You’ll be on the freeway and the bike will get up to full boar then die all of a sudden – you’ll wonder why and it’s because it doesn’t have full voltage. If your battery is 2-3 years old it may be time to change it.
If that checks out, then check your fuses. If the fuses are bad, then nothing goes past them. From there, it’s a matter of making sure your coils are getting spark. If they are getting spark and you have fuel, then you could possibly have a compression issue and you’ll need to do a leak down test on your Honda Shadow. If you don’t have a kit you can take it to a shop; it’s not a hard procedure to figure out on your own, though. A leak down test will help you determine if you’re having issues with your rings, if you’ve got scoring in the pistons, if you’re getting blow by (losing compression in your cylinder into either the crank case or past the valves), etc.
Now, on to compression. If you are losing compression in your cylinders, then it’s either going to manifest itself through excessive pressure coming out of your crankcase breather or you’ll feel pressure coming out of the exhaust. If you do a leak down test or pressurize the cylinders with an air hose and the motor is not turning over, then that’s an indication you have a problem with your compression.
Want more info on how to run a total motorcycle diagnostic on your Honda Shadow? Watch the full video here!
TJ walks viewers through the process of modifying a custom Honda Shadow and shares each step on our YouTube channel. He’ll be inventing parts along the way and asking for YOUR feedback on which mods to make—everything from handlebars and risers to intake, foot controls, and clutch style will be up for debate. We want YOUR input!
Throughout this series, you’ll see firsthand how TJ researches and develops new parts for a custom bike—and he’ll use your feedback to get those parts into production so YOU can use them too!
For this mod, TJ is looking to create a custom Honda Shadow Phantom with a low profile (a little “bulldog-ish,” he says) and fat tires; cruiser-style. But then again, your comments will definitely play a big role in each part of the mod, so be vocal and don’t be afraid to speak up about what you want to see!
Missed the first two episodes? Check them out here and here. And make sure you’re subscribed so you don’t miss upcoming episodes!
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In this episode, TJ walks us through the installation of a set of TJ Brutal Customs Holey Foot Pegs. The install is quick and easy to follow. He also explains the usefulness and intention behind the unique TJ Brutal Customs Holey Foot Peg design. We might be a little biased, but these are definitely the BEST Honda Shadow Foot Pegs on the market. Check ‘em out here!
Starting with the old foot peg, the first thing we’re going to take off is the cotter pin, then remove the stock clevis and washer. Detach the old foot peg and chuck it into the trash because your new Holey Foot Pegs are 100x better quality than any stock Honda Shadow foot pegs! They're the BEST Honda Shadow Foot Pegs EVER and made in the good ole U.S.A.!!!
These Honda Shadow foot pegs are really pretty easy to put on. They’re actually a direct fit for any type of Honda Shadow. And you won’t need an adapter, either. These solid brass foot pegs use your stock mounting hardware and stock mounting clevis for easy installation and a seamless, clean look.
Attach the new foot peg using the stock clevis and washer. If your stock cotter pin is looking worse for wear, grab a new one to finish off the job.
The only potential issue you may run into is your clevis may be bent. If that’s the case, pop it out with a hammer then straighten it out on a bench using a vice or whatever you’ve got handy.
Replacing the foot pegs on your bike is actually a pretty simple process. There’s not a whole lot involved but new Honda Shadow foot pegs will take your bike from TRASH to FLASH in under two minutes! Now that’s an easy upgrade--using the best Honda Shadow foot pegs on the market today!
If you look at the Holey Foot Peg design, you’ll see there’s a little lip on the outer edge. That’s to help keep your foot on the peg and prevent slip-offs. Depending on what kind of sole or shank you have on your boot (i.e. work boots), it may have a thick or metal composite inside the sole which doesn’t allow you to “feel” where your foot is on the pedal. We’ve seen other foot pegs in the past without a lip and here’s what happens: say your boot drifts halfway off the peg and you didn’t realize it, but as soon as you hit a bump, your foot’s completely off the pedal! The built-in, knurled lip design of the Holey Foot Peg will remedy that for sure. That, along with the drilled holes in the cylinder provides the texture your boot needs to grab onto while you’re riding.
The holes and the hollowing also keep the pegs lightweight. Because brass is a pretty dang heavy material. This is C36 machinable brass – it’s very strong and has many different applications, but when you hollow it out and put some holes in it, it keeps it lightweight without sacrificing too much strength.
Well that’s all we’ve got for now! We are excited to have you following along with this build. Stay tuned, subscribe to our channel on YouTube, and hit the “like” button if you enjoyed the content!
Here’s the full episode for your viewing pleasure!
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Today on the blog we’re discussing handlebars—and what to do when those riser bushings start to wear out. Avoid a potentially dangerous situation by employing the newest TJ Brutal Customs product – you need this on your bobber RIGHT NOW!
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When rubber bushings go bad, they create a dangerous situation where you can lose control of the front end of your bike. This creates enough flex in the handlebars to compromise your ability to control your steering and the direction your bike is going. When you’re hurdling down the freeway at 80 mph, that’s not really when you want to discover you’ve got crappy steering.
If you need to get your speed up quickly, you want to do that safely and effectively. A poor connection between your handlebars and front end won’t allow you to do that; it’s way too dangerous.
Here’s the solution:
TJ (of TJ Brutal Customs) just created and released a rad little part he’s calling the Solid Handlebar Riser Bushings. These are made specifically to fit any bike with 34mm riser pockets. They’ll work with the stock Honda Shadow handlebar risers, as well as with aftermarket handlebar risers.
And here’s a quick HOW-TO on how to remove stock risers from your Honda Shadow and solid mount the new bushings.
Step 1: Unscrew nuts on bottom of risers and lift the handlebars up
Step 2: Remove the rubber donut-shaped bushings.
Step 3: Take the Solid Handlebar Riser Bushings and insert them into the recessed area where the old riser bushings sat.
Step 4: Slide the handlebars right back in.
Step 5: Grab the stock washer + nut combo and tighten those back on the bottom.
For the FULL step-by-step and more tips from TJ himself, watch the full video:
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On your typical Honda Shadow, you’ve got two throttle cables—the push cable and the pull cable. But are they both necessary?
The short answer is no. You only need one—and that’s the pull cable.
The push cable just isn’t necessary for optimal Honda Shadow performance. You don’t need it. Technically, it’s only required by the government to return the carb to a non-open-throttle position. But there’s actually a massive spring on your carburetor that returns the throttle back to close. But the pull cable is all that’s really necessary to effectively control the throttle on your Honda Shadow mod.
Here’s the problem with the push cable: more often than not it doesn’t get lubricated enough, thus creating a sluggish or compromised throttle response. And that’s not because your bike sucks, it’s simply because you’re getting two times the friction.
If you “upgrade” to a single cable throttle and take the push cable out of your current cable setup, you’ll immediately notice a marked difference in throttle position return. When you pull that throttle then let go, it’s going to snap back super fast – and that’s what you want to see.
Watch this clip for TJ's take on the single cable throttle:
Need help with the install of your single cable throttle? Watch this video!
BLOG POST: How to Install a Single Cable Throttle Assembly on Your Honda Shadow Build (VIDEO)
BLOG POST: How to Install Your Acerus Single Cable Throttle Assembly
TJ walks viewers through the process of modifying a custom Honda Shadow and shares each step on our YouTube channel. He’ll be inventing parts along the way and asking for YOUR feedback on which mods to make—everything from handlebars and risers to intake, foot controls, and clutch style will be up for debate. We want YOUR input!
Throughout this series, you’ll see firsthand how TJ researches and develops new parts for a custom bike—and he’ll use your feedback to get those parts into production so YOU can use them too!
For this mod, TJ is looking to create a custom Honda Shadow Phantom with a low profile (a little “bulldog-ish,” he says) and fat tires; cruiser-style. But then again, your comments will definitely play a big role in each part of the mod, so be vocal and don’t be afraid to speak up about what you want to see!
Missed the first episode? Check it out here. And make sure you’re subscribed so you don’t miss upcoming episodes!
In this episode, TJ reviews a few of the new modifications he’s made to the Phantom since Episode 1 and shows us what he’s working on right now (including gas tank and e-tank prototypes). He’ll also walk us through how he wired his front headlight and will guide us through the full install of a tail light and license plate bracket.
Since the last episode, TJ has taken off the tank and speedometer and removed quite a bit of other parts including a lot of the plastic bracketry underneath the original seat. He’s also developed a working e-tank prototype for the Honda Shadow Phantom that is accessible from the outside and holds all the necessary electronics. Stay tuned into future episodes because he’ll be asking for viewer feedback on that. TJ’s also in the process of crafting a sissy bar for phantom with specials slits that will allow you to hook tie-downs (now that’s genius!). This mid will also be highlighted in a future episode. He also shows us the set of Malleus Grips and the Acerus Throttle Assembly he’s recently installed which gave the handlebar set-up a serious upgrade.
At 03:00, TJ starts walking us through how he’s wired up the Phantom’s front headlight. Be sure to check it out and see what he says about what can/can’t get unplugged. Bottom line, he says, “unplug the stuff you don’t need and make sure the things you’re unplugging are supposed to be unplugged.” He explains in the video!
Also in this episode (at 06:07), you’ll see TJ is working on a gas tank that’ll plug into a stock Honda Shadow Phantom. He has fabricated a prototype and wants your feedback! Go directly to the video to comment and let us know what you think about the tank style.
One of first things that bothered TJ about this bike was the rear end. The way the license plate, tail light and signals were placed it was way too jumbled, making the backside look hideous! Near the end of Episode 2 (07:56), he’ll walk you through how to relocate a license plate to the side of the bike—using the TJ Brutal Customs Tenet License Plate. This kit allows you to install it horizontally or vertically and can fit on either side of the bike. It’s super versatile and the perfect fit for this Honda Shadow Phantom mod. TJ also walks us through how to install the TJ Brutal Customs LED Finned Tail Light for a sleek, smooth look on the back left side of the Phantom.
There’s even more packed into this episode but you’ll have to watch it for yourself to see!
Throughout this series, you’ll see firsthand how TJ researches and develops new parts for a custom bike. And he’s going to do all he can to get those parts into production so YOU can use them too! For this mod, TJ is looking to create a custom Honda Shadow Phantom with a low profile (a little “bulldog-ish,” he says) and fat tires; cruiser-style. But then again, your comments will definitely play a big role in each part of the mod, so be vocal and don’t be afraid to speak up about what you want to see!
Get ready for some thrills, spills and chills – and make sure you’re subscribed so you don’t miss an episode!
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In this episode, TJ introduces the Honda Shadow VT750 Phantom 2010 model he’ll be working with and starts with the tank and seat removal.
Ultimately, a lot of changes need to happen with this Honda Shadow Phantom, but you’ve gotta start somewhere, right? This episode walks us through how to safely (and smartly) remove the gas tank and seat.
- 5mm Allen wrench and socket
- 12mm socket
- 13mm socket
- fluid hose clamps
Here’s why you need the hose clamps: the EFI system is pressurized. There will be some gas spilling, so you’d best be prepared. TJ will walk you through the process of doing it and we might get a little gas on our hands, but that’s OK.
Underneath the seat there are typically three bolts (however someone got their hands on this bike before TJ did, so we’re missing one). We’re missing the one bolt right at the back of your seat. Remove the back bolt, then unscrew the two side bolts.
Remove the bolt at the back of the tank using a 12mm socket. Start the thread manually then use the drill to finish the job.
BUT WAIT!!! There’s more! For the rest of the process and to see TJ complete it step-by-step, watch the full video!
It’s offered in raw steel, which means you can powdercoat it, paint it or upholster it exactly how you want it. Made of thick, 10ga steel, it won’t bend or warp going over tough terrain.
Ideal for Honda Shadow VT600 and VT750 models, the One-Bolt Solo seat also has a nice big kick up in the back so it’ll keep you in the saddle when you hit the throttle hard.
There’s a single hole at the front of the seat that will allow you to attach it to your bike. You’ll want to use the rear tank tab bolt for this. Pull that bolt out, stick your seat in there, then screw the bolt back in. That’s it!
For more info, watch this video from TJ Brutal Customs!
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Every part of your custom motorcycle should serve its intended purpose. Now whether that purpose is to look “cool as shit” or function at optimal capacity, is up to you. But if something’s not working properly, you’d better fix it!
TJ’s Honda 1100 Sabre had a sissy bar that wasn’t quite up to par. So he manned up and fixed it! Here’s what he did and how you can fashion your own custom sissy bar:
The main issue with his custom sissy bar was the crossmember at the bottom. It was too far down on the sissy bar. He’d originally thought it would look better that way, but it got in the way of removing the backrest for the passenger seat and wouldn’t allow him to take off the rear bolt for the seat. That was a big problem.
So before he could remove the crossmember he had issue with, he crafted a new crossmember that would sit up higher on the sissy bar. He grinded it up to make it fit nicely and then prepped the sissy bar so he could weld in the crossmember (the sissy bar wasn’t painted so it had rusted out a bit and needed to be cleaned up).
Once he got the new crossmember tacked in and welded up, he cut out the problem piece, grinded out the nubs that were left on the inside and cleaned them up. Then he took off the rest of the rust on the sissy bar, ran some acetone over it and sprayed a layer of black paint all over to prevent it from rusting. Once it had dried, he re-mounted it and was good to go!
To see the step-by-step of this entire process, watch this video!
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Do you really need that front brake light switch on your Honda Shadow? Should you relocate it or get rid of it entirely? That’s exactly what we’re discussing on the blog today, so keep reading!
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A customer wrote in asking us about his brake light switch. He said he took his Honda Shadow’s stock throttle housing off and was wondering what to do about his brake light switch. Should he trash it or relocate it?
Great question!
As long as your rear brake light switch is intact (double check!), you can definitely remove your front brake light switch. You don’t need it.
If you’re super paranoid and only brake with your front brake (which is totally unsafe and will soon result in you flying over your handlebars to an untimely death), then you could leave it intact. However, it’s really not necessary. Why? Think about it: when you’re braking, most of the time you’re using the front and rear brakes together, or just the rear brake. So a front brake light switch is just not necessary.
To get rid of that switch, grab your Philips head screwdriver, take all the wiring out and throw it in the trash! It unscrews very easily and comes right out of the housing. A simple fix!
For more details on how this process works, watch this video!
Speaking of brake issues and tips, check out these other TJ Brutal Customs blog posts:
On the hunt for Honda Shadow brake pegs? SHOP these TJ Brutal Customs pegs:
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Today on the blog, we're discussing whether or not it's wise to attach a sissy bar to the swingarm of your Honda Shadow. Read on for ALL the advice and tips!
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We get this question a lot: "Can I mount a sissy bar kit to my Honda Shadow and keep the suspension?"
Can you? Yes. But should you? Keep reading for your answer…
Before you install a sissy bar on your Honda Shadow’s live swing arm, there are a few things you’ll want to consider.
First of all, if you do install a sissy bar on a swingarm where the suspension is still intact, what you’re essentially doing is creating a fancy “tuning fork” that’ll eventually drive you crazy!
Wait, what? Think about it this way: your Honda Shadow’s swingarm is going to move up and down as your bike hits bumps in the road and if it’s connected to your sissy bar, it’ll create a seriously annoying vibration on the sissy bar – an annoying rattle that only gets worse as you ride (thus, the “tuning fork”).
That vibration is sent all the way down through the sissy bar to the swingarm and through all the welded joints, to the fender… and the whole thing will eventually rattle itself to death.
The longer the sissy bar, the more it’ll wiggle and vibrate. The shorter the swingarm, the less issues you’ll have.
So what if you want to mount a fender to your Honda Shadow’s swingarm? If that’s the case, you should NOT use a sissy bar if the swingarm suspension is intact.
You’ll want to go with either a set of struts to hold the fender or a small grab bar-style sissy bar where the top piece will come up over the seat but loop back pretty close to the fender. It’s a much more practical option with a less exaggerated top than a stereotypical sissy bar.
If you decide to modify your frame into a rigid style frame, you can absolutely run a sissy bar and fender from it because this part of the frame is no longer bouncing up and down (it’s now rigid).
To see how this process works on both a Honda Shadow VT600 and a VT750, watch this video:
Drilling holes in your motorcycle’s brake drum offers a few key advantages. But what happens if water gets in there? Won't that screw things up? Today’s blog post addresses these questions and more – so keep reading!
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Drilling holes in your Honda Shadow’s brake drum isn’t a new concept, but it’s one that we’ve gotten a few questions on lately, so let’s talk through it.
Essentially, drilling holes in your Honda Shadow’s brake drum can help with heat and brake dust management. The key here is to dissipate both heat and dust before it gets out of control.
Brake dust can accumulate very quickly in a Honda Shadow drum brake because the drum brake itself is relatively enclosed (with the exception of a small slit around the outside of the brake drum). Therefore, any dust your Honda Shadow generates from braking stays inside the drum brake.
Our recommendation is to drill a few small holes in the backing plate so that air passing by the brake drum can help blow out any bits of dust that might accumulate in there.
Some of you might be wondering, “But what if water gets in there? Won’t that screw things up?”
Well, if you’ve ever ridden in the rain, you’ll notice that water isn’t launching itself horizontally—directly into your Honda Shadow’s brake drum! Unless a car slides up next to you at a stoplight and splashes a puddle directly in there (small chance), it’s not a huge issue you need to worry about. And even in that case, the heat the brake drum generates will burn off most of the water that gets in there.
You shouldn’t have any problems braking in the rain, either, unless the water is so deep that it surrounds your entire brake drum. And if that’s really the case, then you need to get off the road, dude! It’s flooding!
The key to maintaining a Honda Shadow brake drum with holes drilled in it is to service it regularly. This means you’ll need to blow out the dust in your brake drum with an air compressor every couple hundred miles to eliminate buildup and prevent any future braking issues.
For more on servicing your Honda Shadow brake drum, watch this video!
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Ever wonder if you could get a 5th gear inside your Honda Shadow VLX600? Is it even possible? Is it advisable? We'll discuss in today’s blog post.
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A customer asks, “is there a 5 speed transmission that will marry up to the Honda Shadow VLX 600?”
The short answer is NO and here’s why.
The Honda Shadow VLX600 is a 4-speed transmission. This is commonly referred to as a “unit construction motor.”
Unit construction motors differ from a “big twin” which you might find on a Harley—in which case the motor is separate from the transmission. If your bobber’s transmission is separate from the motor, you could interchange and swap out pieces, modifying it however you want. However, with a unit construction motor, the transmission is built into the actual bottom end. The motor and transmission are one piece on a Honda Shadow VLX600 or VT600—you can’t split them apart.
If you’ve ridden a Honda Shadow VLX600 or VT600 before, you’ll remember that as you’re shifting through the gears, that 3rd gear is pretty darn useful. You can use from as low as 20mph all the way up to wide open throttle before you hit 4th gear. And on that model, 4th gear is actually more narrow than 3rd.
On the other hand, with a 5-speed Honda Shadow like the Honda Shadow VT750, you’ll realize that the 5th gear isn’t really that beneficial. The Honda Rebel 250s had 5 gears, too, and if you’ve ridden one of those you’d certainly be able to feel the build up to 5th gear. With a 4-speed transmission like the one on the Honda Shadow VLX600, the jump from gear to gear is really short and quick.
If you’re wanting to change the gears on your Honda Shadow VT600 there is no 5-speed transmission that’ll marry up to the VLX simply because of the way it’s designed.
If you were to put a 5th gear inside that transmission all you'd really get is a 3rd gear that was split in half, rendering it pretty worthless. You'd need to redesign the whole motor to accept a fifth gear.
As mentioned before, the Honda Shadow VT750 has 5 gears but you don’t gain much benefit over the 4-geared Honda Shadow VT600.
If you want to get less vibration at highway speeds, you can bring your rear sprocket down a few teeth. We’ve actually already written a long post on that, so head on over to this linked post for more info on adding teeth:
This post will show you how to bring highway vibrations down but bear in mind that when you do this you’ll have to work your clutch and throttle a lot more. You’ll also have much slower takeoffs.
The Honda Shadow VLX600 is geared really well for all-around performance. The gearing allows you take off really fast—you’ll definitely spank Harleys off the line (maybe not all of them, but a lot of them at least). The VLX600 is a light, nimble bike; it’s steering is fantastic. It has a lot of elements that make it a great bike for all-around riding but if you do a lot of highway riding, you might want to bring the gear ratio down.
For more on this and to get TJ’s recommendations, watch this video:
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“Help! I need to replace my Honda Shadow’s riser bushings!”
If you’ve got worn out riser bushings on your Honda Shadow bobber, then you’ve come to the right place.
First, let’s talk about the deeper issue here and then we’ll get around to how (or “if”) you can replace them.
You’ll find the riser bushings on the top clamp of your Honda Shadow model (this goes for Honda Shadow VLX600, Honda Shadow VT750 and Honda Shadow VT600 models). On the top clamp, you’ll see a little hole that your risers attach to; it has a little round ring at the bottom and a steel sleeve covered in rubber—both of which will eventually go bad.
Unfortunately, your riser bushings are a pain in the butt to remove. We’ve tried pressing on them to get them out but that doesn’t work, so our top recommendation would be to grab a drill bit and drill out the old, busted up riser bushing.
Since riser bushings can’t actually be replaced, we recommend you solid mount your risers. You can put some washers in there and mount it in the top clamp solid. Run everything through the whole and stick your nut in the bottom (or vice versa for a bolt through the bottom kind of riser).
Bottom line: to replace your riser bushings, you just DON’T.
For a demonstration of how this whole process works using a Honda Shadow top clamp, watch this video:
Today on the blog, we’re discussing AIS plates and how to tell if you need them on your Honda Shadow build. We’ll also cover the use and function of AIS plates for custom Honda Shadows.
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How do you know if you need AIS plates on your Honda Shadow build?
If you are removing all of the EPA components from your Honda Shadow in preparation for a velocity stacks install—or another aftermarket intake, there’s a simple way to see if AIS plates are in order. But first…
If you’re removing the AIS (Air Injection System) from your Honda Shadow (most likely, your Honda Shadow VT600), AIS Block Off Plates are in order. The AIS system is typically found on most California bikes but may be on other state bikes as well. These plates allow you to remove your AIS (Air Induction System) from your bike and cover the little reed valve left on the top of your heads. The AIS is a government-imposed pile of tubing, hoses and other things your bike doesn't necessarily need to run well—plus it clutters up the top of the motor. All of it can technically be removed and discarded.
Once the EPA components are removed from your Honda Shadow, you may find two hoses going to reed valves on the top of each head cover. Both hoses point inwards and you’ll find a hose going from there into all sorts of other areas. If your Honda Shadow has these hoses and you choose to remove them, then you’ll definitely need an AIS plate (or pair) if you find the small reed valve underneath.
TJ Brutal Customs sells AIS Block Off Plates as a set of two plates that will fit many models of Honda Shadow VT750 (up to 2003). If your Honda Shadow VT750 has an EFI system instead of carbureted, you will need the TJ Brutal Customs PAIR Block-Off Plates. It’s important to note that not all Honda Shadow years require block-off plates to remove the AIS. If you’re unsure, check the product descriptions on the AIS Plates linked above (or below) and double check you’ve got those reed valves underneath the EPA components.
For more on AIS plates and if your Honda Shadow needs them, watch this video:
If you’re asking about AIS plates, your next question might be, “how do I set up a single carb velocity stack on my Honda Shadow?” We’ve got a helpful little blog post on this topic you’ll want to check out. Read it right here:
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Want to start chopping your Honda Shadow but not sure where to start? Today on the blog we’ve got a few tips on where—and how—to get started, regardless of how much experience you have.
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You’re finally ready to start building the Honda Shadow of your dreams but you’re not sure where to begin. Even if you have little to no experience chopping Honda Shadows, you can always start somewhere. Here’s what we recommend.
The simplest and easiest adjustment you can make to your Honda Shadow is the bolt-on mod. They are super easy to install and require zero fabrication or welding. Plus, they look 1000% better than any stock Honda Shadow part already sitting on your bike – we guarantee it!
When you’re just starting out in the world of Honda Shadow chopping, any modification with little to no fabrication is always a great idea.
Another option for the beginner chopper is changing out your intake and exhaust. It doesn’t require a whole lot of fabrication, but it’ll provide you with a great understanding of how your bike functions and what makes it run. This also presents the opportunity for you to open up your Honda Shadow and get a better feel for the workings of your bike.
Changing out the gas tank or handle bars on a Honda Shadow creates a drastic change in how the bike looks. Both mods offer an extreme visual shift in the lines of your bike—both in how it looks from afar and how it sits. These two simple Honda Shadow mods can create a whole new bike.
There are usually bolt-on options for both tanks and handlebars unless you get bars that are larger than your current ones. In that case, you’d need to extend your handlebar lines and cables (and here’s a quick tutorial on how to do that!)
For more on how to start chopping your Honda Shadow, watch this video!
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Today on the blog we’re discussing lithium ion batteries vs. stock Honda Shadow batteries. What’s your preference? What’s on your Honda Shadow right now? Is it time for an upgrade?
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If you’ve been thinking about upgrading your Honda Shadow’s stock battery to a lithium ion replacement, then we’re with you 100 percent!
Lithium ion batteries are excellent. Not only do they have much higher cold cranking amps but you can also mount them in any position. Plus, you lose about 6-7 pounds by switching from a stock battery to an antigravity lithium one. They’re great batteries all around.
One important thing to note is that if you plan to charge them, you must purchase a specific lithium ion battery charger for your new battery. You can’t use the same trickle charger that you’ve been using on your lead cell batteries. You need a specific type of charger for the lithium ion batteries.
So, as long as you don’t try to jump your new lithium ion battery with your car or use your old trickle charger on it, your new battery should serve your Honda Shadow well for years to come!
Bottom line:
We definitely recommend switching to a lithium ion battery on your Honda Shadow because they’re reliable and extremely lightweight. Just make sure you purchase (and use) the right charger for your battery!
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Today on the blog, we’re talking Honda Shadow mufflers and the pros and cons of cutting them off. Read on for all the details!
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When Honda designed their exhaust for the Honda Shadow VT750 (pre-2004) and the Honda Shadow VT600, they gave it a double wall exhaust construction with an inner pipe and an outer pipe. If you cut off your muffler, that inner pipe is no longer supported; it’s right inside there just flopping around.
If you run your Honda Shadow like that for long enough, the inner pipe may actually rip itself off of the boss right by the motor. So now you have a loose pipe just hanging out in there. You may not hear the vibration until you hit a certain speed—and at that point, the vibrations of the bike could bounce that little piece inside enough to knock it out.
Years ago, this actually happened to TJ. He had chopped his pipes, then tuned and re-jetted his Honda Shadow properly, but he was unaware that this could happen to the inner pipe:
“I was on the freeway and heard a sound,” he said. “So I looked down and the inner pipe was sticking out the back of the outer pipe!”
Uh oh. What he didn’t realize was that cutting mufflers off can cause the inner tubing of the front exhaust pipe to break free due to all the vibration and give you a buzz or rattle.
For those of you building your Honda Shadow on a budget that just can’t afford a new set of pipes, here’s what we recommend: if you’re going to cut the mufflers off your pipes, do something to stabilize the inner tube of that forward exhaust pipe.
The only downside here is that if the inner pipe does break off, there’s no way to easily or cheaply fix it. You basically have to cut the whole thing off or get a new pipe—and that’s not cheap. Because of how the bends curve inside those pipes, you can’t just slide out the inner tube; there’s not enough room. Good luck!
Happy chopping (or not)!
For more info on cutting your Honda Shadow mufflers, watch this video!
Today on the blog, we’re talking about gas tank liners for your Honda Shadow. Are they necessary? How’s it done? Which are the best brands? We’ll answer all these questions and more, so let’s dig in!
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Trying to determine whether or not you need to line your Honda Shadow’s gas tank? Well we’ve got your answers right here!
The purpose of a gas tank liner is to prevent rust and corrosion inside your Honda Shadow’s gas tank. If your current tank isn’t lined, you’re going to notice the gas eats away at the tank over time. Lining a tank (and lining it well) prevents this.
We’re not gonna lie. It’s time-consuming to line a Honda Shadow gas tank. You can do it yourself but be forewarned—it’s not simple and it takes a little practice. It is doable, though!
- Fuel Tank Liner (we recommend Red-Kote)
- flexible gooseneck flashlight
- lots and lots of time!!!
Start by pouring the tank liner into your gas tank. You’ll need enough to fully coat the lining of your gas tank (see instructions on tank liner label). We recommend Red-Kote for this step. A flexible flashlight will help you see inside your Honda Shadow’s gas tank to ensure everything visible is coated. Once that’s done, close up the gas tank and rotate it quite a bit to make sure every surface inside the tank is covered.
Hang up the closed tank, letting all the lining liquid collect in the front, then drain the excess out.
Babysit your tank for the next bunch of hours! Take it to dinner, to the movies… wherever you go, because you’ll need to rotate it every 15 minutes or so to make sure the tank liner doesn’t pool up. (If the liner pools, it creates a hard shell over the puddle—but the pool under the shell remains liquid. THIS IS BAD because eventually that shell is going to rip through and you’ll have liner mixed in with your gas! That’s very bad!
You’ll know it’s dry when you stop smelling that pungent “gassing out” smell. The drier your climate, the faster it’ll cure. Putting heat (e.g. hair dryer) on it won’t help; it needs regular drying time.
Red-Kote and other tank liners are not an epoxy; they’re actually elastomers. This makes them very stretchy. You could technically line right over rust with it, but we don’t recommend doing so. If your Honda Shadow’s gas tank is rusted, we recommend filling the gas tank to the top with a mixture of CLR and warm water. Let it sit, rinse it out, then do it again until the rust is nearly gone.
Some people also recommend putting nuts and bolts and pieces of chain in the tank and shaking that around. If you have serious, heavy flaking, this might be a good option for you, but you’ll need to do a lot of shaking!
It’s also worth noting that if your tank’s really that bad, it might be time to just get a new one.
Lining your Honda Shadow’s gas tank will give your gas tank a long, happy life. Without the lining, you risk rust and corrosion.
Bottom line: just line your gas tank! Red-Kote is TJ Brutal Customs’ liner of choice for Honda Shadow gas tanks. It’s resistant to gas, high temps, corrosion, etc. Try it out and tell us how you like it!
For more info on lining your Honda Shadow’s gas tank, check out this video:
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